Transgendered individuals usually require special and extra contouring with makeup to help create an illusion of a more feminine face. There is no one, perfect way to apply makeup. Having said that, we will present what we believe is a simple yet effective method for the crossdresser. The best way to become proficient is practice, practice, practice.
We all have different features and our best feature should be played up the most. The less desirable features should be hidden or minimized.
Facial shape - The ideal facial shape is that of an oval. All other shapes should be contoured to reach this goal. Contouring can be accomplished with a variety of products that produce dark and light areas on the face. Light concealer sticks work well, as does white eyeshadow. For dark, you can use a dark foundation or just a brown eyeshadow.
If a face is long and narrow, bangs or dark shadowing near the hair line bring the top down, and dark shadowing at chin reduces the appearance of length. Light contouring on the sides of the face make it appear wider. Long, dark hair tends to make the face appear narrower.
If the face is wide, the opposite method is used. However, long hair may not be the best alternative if one is older, because long hair may look out of place.
Cheekbones - To emphasize these, use light on the cheekbone area and dark underneath.
Deep set eyes - Use light shades of eye shadow to bring the eyes out.
Brow - Use darker shades of foundation above the brow to set it back.
Lips - Use light foundation around the lips to make them appear fuller.
Nose - Use dark on sides of nose to make it appear narrower.
Contouring may be applied after makeup, but the face appears more natural when contouring is applied after foundation and beard concealer, but before liquid makeup and powder. It is usually best, when shaping the face, to blend the contouring to avoid a sharp line.
Contouring is difficult to master and certainly isn't necessary, but can be very rewarding when applied correctly. It is often considered the most difficult part of applying makeup and, if you're not careful, you may look as if you just stepped out of a coal mine or have a two-day beard growth. Be sure to blend in the shading. Use a soft brush and brush the light area into the dark area.
Once again: practice, practice, practice.
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